Gucci made a striking return to London for its Cruise 2025 collection, showcasing a captivating blend of strength and delicacy under the creative direction of Sabato De Sarno. The venue choice of Tate Modern marked a stark contrast from Gucci’s 2016 Westminster Abbey show under Alessandro Michele, highlighting the brand’s shift towards modernism and innovation.
Set against the raw, industrial backdrop of Turbine Hall, adorned with lush greenery for the occasion, the show provided a perfect canvas for De Sarno’s vision. He described the collection as a play on dichotomies, blending “rigour and extravagance, strength in delicacy, Englishness with an Italian accent.” This approach translated into an array of wearable pieces catering to diverse generations, from Gen-Z to Baby Boomers.
The star-studded front row highlighted Gucci’s enduring appeal. Celebrities such as Dua Lipa, Kate Moss, and Salma Hayek donned a mix of Gucci’s SS24 and AW24 collections, each embodying the brand’s ethos in their unique styles. Dua Lipa appeared in a black logo-embossed leather jacket with shorts, while Kate Moss chose a black lingerie look paired with a practical black coat. Lila Moss wore a buttery yellow tailored shortsuit, and Debbie Harry sported high platform shoes, matching the show’s soundtrack. Salma Hayek dazzled in a curvy one-shoulder black satin dress, and Demi Moore, accompanied by a tiny dog, wore a semi-sheer slip dress. Eiza González showcased the AW24 sequinned coat with shorts, Andrew Scott opted for minimal logos with a double G logo belt, Daisy Edgar-Jones appeared in a caramel-coloured leather ensemble, and Solange Knowles celebrated transparency in a camo-toned lace outfit.
De Sarno’s Cruise 2025 collection stood out for its versatility and inclusivity. The overall silhouette was either wide and roomy with loose coats, slouchy jeans, retro blousons, or fluid plissé gowns, or neat and boxy with tailored jackets and cropped pants. Fresh sorbet shades paired with Gucci neutrals created a vibrant yet sophisticated palette. Chamomile floral motifs and checks appeared in various forms, adding texture and visual interest. Accessories were dominated by giant shoulder bags, 1970s Blondie bags, oversized shoppers, and universally flat shoes, from ballerinas to creepers.
The choice of London and specifically Tate Modern is significant. Not only does Gucci have a cultural partnership with the Tate aimed at boosting young creatives, but the venue’s modernist appeal also aligns with current fashion trends. De Sarno expressed his personal and professional connection to London, noting its influence on both him and Gucci’s founder. He praised the city’s creative energy and its ability to harmonise contrasts, a theme that resonated throughout the collection.
As Sabato De Sarno takes Gucci into this new era, blending traditional elements with modern twists, the Cruise 2025 collection showcased in London stands as a testament to his vision. With Turbine Hall’s raw concrete juxtaposed with living greenery, the show encapsulated the essence of Gucci’s evolving narrative. For Londoners and fashion enthusiasts worldwide, this collection signifies a “nice one, Sabato.
